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Travel Blog
Cambodia: Reflections upon a kingdom of ancient and modern warfare
Jun 14 2007
As I browse at the news on the internet I stumble upon an article about the Khmer Rouge. A trial has just begun for Kang Kek Ieu who was in charge of Phnom Penh’s notorious Khmer Rouge prison simply named S21, back in the late 1970s. Thousands were tortured and murdered at this gruesome institution. It lingers hauntingly in my memory from my tour of Cambodia back 2004. Nationwide estimates say as many as 2 million people were murdered and left in Cambodia’s Killing Fields. However, this ancient land has long suffered turbulence, back to the times of the Khmer Empire.
I began my tour of Cambodia in the north exploring the ruins of the ancient Khmer kingdom of Angkor. This settlement was gargantuan, and spread across tens of miles of rainforest. From the 9th to the 14th century the Khmer empire based in Angkor spread it’s power as far as Vietnam (then called ‘Champa’) in the south to Laos, Thailand and even China in the north. However, Khmer’s central location would also determine their downfall as surrounding enemies attacked them.
I spent three days both cycling and walking round dozens of impressively decorated temples, some dating back many centuries. The city of Angkor Thom is at the centre with the Bayon temple as its central masterpiece. Built by Jayarvarman VII in 1200AD it has 54 towers and 11,000 figures carved into its bas-reliefs. The most impressive site of my visit to Cambodia was Angkor Wat (see above). It is simply stunning and reflects the Khmer’s devotion to their gods with its impressive towers and carvings. It is remarkably preserved and believed to be the biggest religious structure anywhere on earth. Built as a funery to Suryavarman II in the 12th century, it also in honours the Hindu deity, Vishnu, with whom the king identified. Surrounded by a wide moat, the mind-blowing complex is a place of symmetry with long straight corridors many courtyards. The central tower is an impressive 55m high and from near the top you get an impressive view down over the whole complex and surrounding rich, green rainforest.
Eventually the Khmer Empire fell into decline following the sacking of Angkor by the Thais in 1351. Angkor temples fell into disrepair, occupied only by holy men and pilgrims. Angkor succumbed to the power of nature as trees eventually overgrew the mammoth structures. The French rediscovered Angkor back in the 19th Century, however with the turbulent wars of Indo-China from the 1950s to the 1970s, hardly any visitors could soak up this ancient world wonder. The brutal regime of the Khmer Rouge became embroiled with neighbouring Vietnam, just as their ancient ancestors would have done so many centuries before. Indeed it shows how history repeats itself. Back full circle, the bitter irony that today in Phnom Penh, brutal rulers of the Khmer Rouge regime are now on trial for their barbarous acts against their own people. My mind will never forget the spine chilling atmosphere of S21 prison and all the senseless torture and killing which it stood for. This tortured country has suffered unbelievably.